Monday, May 4, 2015

Apologies to Jacqueline

This is Jacqueline.

Jacqueline is a Brother 1034D four-thread serger, and a hugely valuable tool in making ballroom costumes.  A serger isn't necessary for sewing clothes of any kind and there are several tasks which sergers cannot do (buttonholes, zippers . . .), but they excel at sewing stretch fabrics, sewing light fabrics, and sewing quickly.  Since sewing stretch and light fabrics on a deadline is the majority of my sewing, I find Jacqueline invaluable.

She would like me to apologize for all the mean things I said when hemming the overskirt of the jade anna dress.  It turns out that it does matter whether one removes the right or the left needle to do a three-thread rolled hem.  It works much better to use the right needle only.

It was also not her fault that I had the loopers' tensions cranked up way too high.  What is an appropriate tension for a couple layers of lycra is not necessary for a single layer of chiffon.  A more relaxed tension (half of what I use for seaming) is sufficient to roll the edge and won't produce weird puckering.

Since Jacqueline and I have reached this understanding, the manufacturing of streamers for the jade anna dress is going well, and my dining chairs are sporting piles of green chiffon.

Each godet of the dress will be topped with three streamers: two in jade and one in mint.  I mixed in the mint to provide pops of lighter color as the skirt moves.  The streamers are squares cut on the bias with their diagonal equal to the radius of the godet.  Once edged, the streamers are hand-sewn to the lycra just about each godet.

I dare to hope that this dress might be approaching completion.  Once the streamers are on, there are just a few more appliques and sequins left to complete the original master plan of this dress.

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